Beauty & Grooming Archives - Black Health Matters https://blackhealthmatters.com/category/lifestyle/beauty/ Black Health Matters, News, Articles, Stats, Events Wed, 31 Jul 2024 14:50:47 +0000 en-US hourly 1 https://wordpress.org/?v=6.6.1 https://blackhealthmatters.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/03/favicon.png Beauty & Grooming Archives - Black Health Matters https://blackhealthmatters.com/category/lifestyle/beauty/ 32 32 Summer Hair SOS: Is Your Style Causing Scalp Issues? https://blackhealthmatters.com/summer-hair-sos-is-your-style-causing-scalp-issues/ Wed, 17 Jul 2024 17:15:26 +0000 https://blackhealthmatters.com/?p=42724 Summer is a time for carefree fun and expressing ourselves with our favorite hairstyles. But achieving those masterful summer hairstyles can sometimes lead to unforeseen scalp issues! This guide explores […]

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Summer is a time for carefree fun and expressing ourselves with our favorite hairstyles. But achieving those masterful summer hairstyles can sometimes lead to unforeseen scalp issues! This guide explores the impact of summer styling choices, including heavy product usage and product application.

Techniques like braiding, weaving, and twisting showcase our creativity, flyness, style, and resilience. However, the desire for these styles can lead to the overuse of “heavy” hair products like hair fibers/extensions, edge control, and mousse/foam. While these products may achieve the initial look, they can have unintended consequences for your scalp’s health. Let’s take a deep dive into how these products affect your hair follicles and pores while exploring healthier alternatives to achieve beautiful, healthy summer hair.

Drowning in Heavy Products

Overusing “heavy” products like braid gels, mousses/foams, and thick edge controls can disrupt the scalp’s delicate ecosystem. They leave behind white flakes and buildup and can also clog pores, hindering sebum production (natural oil) and causing dryness and irritation. The constant strain from tight braiding or extensions and product buildup can cause traction alopecia and scarring, resulting in permanent hair loss. Check out this video for an extreme example of the overuse of mousse/foam—scroll to the end.

In this video, Susan L. Peterkin – co-founder of the @naturalhairindustry (N.H.I.C.) and@thestrandnetwork (S.T.R.A.N.D.), discusses how the over-manipulation of edges and baby hairs can cause progressive hair loss. Peterkin says in the video, “And I’m predicting this is (talking about baby hair): What’s going to happen. Each time you go in, you are going to pull some more out because this part is going to keep burning off and then shorter.”

The Ripple Effect & Scalp Distress

  • Clogged Pores: Thick layers of product can suffocate hair follicles by blocking oxygen and nutrient flow and hindering sebum production. This can weaken hair, increase shedding, and even lead to permanent hair loss in extreme cases.
  • Microbiome Imbalance: Harsh chemicals, fragrances, sweat combined with product buildup can disrupt the scalp’s natural bacteria balance, promoting scalp conditions like seborrheic dermatitis (dandruff), fungus like candida (yeast infection) and trichomycosis (mold).

Creating a Healthy Hair Climate

Use Lighter Products

Opt for lightweight, water-soluble (capable of dissolving in water without leaving scalp buildup or residue) styling products that allow your scalp to breathe. Be generous with your product usage—there is no need to cake it on.

Minimize Fragrance

 Choose products with little to no fragrance. Fragrance can cause allergic reactions to the scalp, one of your body’s most sensitive skin areas.

Here are three products without the buildup or flaking and have minimal fragrance:

1. Vontae Edge Effects, $14

2. KeraCare Styling Hair Wax Stick $20.50

3. MyGel by Joi Naturals.

Gentle Styling

Prioritize healthy practices like regular cleanses and gentle detangling. Use the right styling tools for your hair type and texture, minimize heat styling, and avoid high-tension styles and irritating hair fibers/extensions. Nourish your hair and scalp with steam and moisturizing products.

Clean & Disinfect

Wash your hair and edge brush, comb, and clips regularly to avoid residue buildup, which can be a breeding ground for bacteria. Do not share hair tools—everyone in the home should have their own hair care tools.

Here’s a step-by-step on how to disinfect your tools at home:

Step 1. Clean any excess hair or product buildup from your hair tools.

Step 2. Scrub with soapy hot water, Dr. Bronner’s castile soap, and a nail cleaning/toothbrush until clean.

Step 3. Lay them out to dry on a clean hand or paper towel.

Step 4. After they dry thoroughly, douse them with 70-90% alcohol using a spray bottle—this last step is crucial as it will kill any unwanted bacteria.

Pro Tip: Clean your hair tools every time you wash your hair.

Taking the Plunge for Healthy Hair

  • Don’t Forget Your H20: Drink plenty of water to keep your hair, skin, and body hydrated.
  • Eat a Balanced Diet: Support hair growth with Essential Vitamins A, B, C, D, & E. You can also juice for healthier hair.
  • Seek Professional Help: If you experience chronic scalp issues, consult a dermatologist specializing in scalp disorders. If these issues impact your mental or emotional well-being connect with a therapist.

Remember, scalp health isn’t just about aesthetics; it’s the foundation for unlocking the full potential of YOU and your hair this summer and every season after that.

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Our 2024 Guide to Sunscreens: 16 Picks for Darker Skin https://blackhealthmatters.com/our-2024-guide-to-sunscreens-16-to-look-for/ Wed, 03 Jul 2024 18:54:27 +0000 https://blackhealthmatters.com/?p=42598 Black folks need to wear sunscreen. But deep down, you might believe that because you have been blessed with a burnished brown skin tone, you are naturally protected from the […]

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Black folks need to wear sunscreen. But deep down, you might believe that because you have been blessed with a burnished brown skin tone, you are naturally protected from the sun; think again. Dr. Alexis Stephens of Parkland Dermatology in Coral Springs, Florida, says that the protection we think we have is not enough.

“Despite the prevalent misconception that melanin-rich skin doesn’t need sunscreen, it’s crucial for everyone to use it. While melanin provides some natural protection against UV radiation, it is insufficient to prevent skin damage, premature aging, or skin cancer. Sunscreen shields the skin from harmful UVA and UVB rays, which can cause hyperpigmentation, photoaging, and skin cancer. Daily use of sunscreen is vital in maintaining healthy skin and preventing long-term damage, ensuring that your skin remains radiant and protected.”

So, don’t consider sunscreen a summertime staple but an everyday essential. Sitting in front of a computer screen all day exposes your skin to blue light. And the best one is the sunscreen you continually use!

With so many to choose from, where does one start, and what does one look for?

We’ve removed some guesswork by answering your biggest questions and creating these guide to sunscreens for darker skin tones:

What are the benefits of using sunscreen?

Sunscreen can block UV rays that stimulate melanin production. While significantly reducing and preventing uneven skin tone and hyperpigmentation, maintains Ginille Brown, a Los Angeles-based Aesthetic Nurse Practitioner and Founder of Ginille Beauty Aesthetic. “Many of my Black and brown patients see improvement in hyperpigmentation once they incorporate daily sunscreen into their routine. Moreover, treatments like laser, microneedling, facials, and chemical peels are more effective and safer when combined with diligent sun protection,” she states. In addition to sunscreen, using sun-protective clothing such as hats and gloves and avoiding the sun can enhance protection.

What should those with melanin-rich skin look for in sunscreen?

Dr. Stephens states that when selecting a sunscreen, individuals with melanin-rich skin should seek products that offer broad-spectrum protection with an SPF of 30 or higher. Broad spectrum means the sunscreen protects you from both UVA and UVB rays. Choosing a sunscreen that doesn’t leave a white caste is essential, which is a common issue with many mineral-based sunscreens (more on that below). Opt for formulations with micronized zinc oxide or chemical/organic sunscreens that blend seamlessly into the skin. Hydrating ingredients and antioxidants can also be incredibly beneficial, helping maintain skin health and prevent hyperpigmentation. Look for sunscreens enriched with nourishing components like hyaluronic acid, vitamin E, and Niacinamide, which protect the skin and enhance its overall appearance and texture.

What is the difference between mineral sunscreens and chemical sunscreens?

Brown explains that mineral sunscreens contain active ingredients like zinc oxide or titanium dioxide that sit on the skin’s surface and physically block UV rays. Chemical sunscreens contain organic compounds like Oxybenzone or avobenzone that absorb UV radiation and convert it into heat, which is then released from the skin. She also suggests that those with sensitive skin should use mineral sunscreens with zinc oxide or titanium dioxide as they are less likely to irritate.

Two to try: Check out Brown’s brand, Jasi Skin Crystal Clear Mineral SPF 45, $64, or CeraVe Hydrating Mineral Sunscreen SPF 50 Body Lotion.

Wait a minute. Are all chemicals safe to use?

According to the Environmental Working Group, out of 1,700 products tested, which included recreational sunscreens and daily-use SPF products, nearly 300 contain Oxybenzone, octinoxate, or both; half of the products raise significant concerns about allergies. Avoid Oxybenzone and octinoxate, both found in many chemical sunscreens, which are harmful to human health and the environment. The National Institutes of Health reports that they are known to cause allergies in people and disrupt hormones, while in nature, they harm coral reefs and fish, causing bleaching and even death.

What is an SPF? What number should we be looking for?

Cosmetic chemist Nongdo Bougouma says according to the FDA, SPF is a measure that indicates how long it takes for UV rays to redden protected skin (i.e., skin with sunscreen) compared to unprotected skin (i.e., skin without sunscreen). For example, if it takes 10 minutes to sunburn without sunscreen, with an SPF of 50, it will now take 500 minutes. Nurse Practitioner Brown adds that a higher SPF offers more protection, but only to a certain extent. SPF 30 blocks about 97% of UVB rays, while SPF 50 blocks about 98%. Beyond SPF 50, the increase in protection is minimal.

An SPF of at least 30 is recommended for everyday use. An SPF of 50 or higher should provide additional protection against intense UV exposure for extended outdoor activities, such as a day at the beach. Look for sweat— and waterproof sunscreens or water-resistant sunscreens to ensure long-lasting protection. Using moisturizers or makeup with SPF is not enough. It’s essential to use sunscreen in addition to other skincare products and makeup, even if they contain SPF.

Help me start my journey. Which sunscreens are meeting melanated needs?

Black Girl Sunscreen Ultra Sheer SPF 30 Moisturizing Sunscreen, $19, is an excellent place to start if you have normal to dry skin. But if you have oily skin, try Black Girl Sunscreen, Make it Matte, SPF 45, $17.99.

Black Girl Sunscreen Make it Matte, SPF 45

Supergoop! Play Everyday Lotion SPF 50, $36,  Lightweight, sweat and water-resistant.

Supergoop Play Everday

Neutrogena Ultra Sheer Dry-Touch Broad Spectrum SPF 55, $13.99, is a tried-and-true sunscreen for all-over use and long sunny days at the beach.

Neutrogena dry-touch sunscreen SPF 55

Face card approved: Tinted sunscreens come to the rescue in deeper shades that convert a bevy of hues and go the distance as a protectant and makeup. Expect a glow-up as they all include good-for-skin ingredients like hyaluronic acid to provide hydration and retain moisture.

Reach for:

EltaMD Skincare UV Daily Broad Spectrum 40 Deep Tint, $45 (but don’t sleep on the transp option, UV Clear SPF 46), contains Niacinamide, which helps reduce the appearance of discoloration and blemishes.

Live Tinted Hueguard Skin Tint SPF 50, $42. Natural ingredients like Butterfly Bush Flower Extract prevent collagen breakdown and encourage skin repair.

Fenty Beauty Hydra Vizor Huez SPF 30 Refillable Tinted Moisturizer Set, $48. It comes in 10 shades. Rich in antioxidants, it reduces the appearance of pores, dark spots, and fine lines.

Clear formulas: SEKKISEI, Herbal UV Defense Gel Broad Spectrum SPF 40 Sunscreen, $30, is the perfect marriage of ancient herbal ingredients and modern technology in a clear formula that works for our skin. Ingredients include licorice root to reduce irritation, Angelica Gingas root, which reduces hyperpigmentation and keeps skin hydrated, and Job’s Tear Seed Extract. The formula is encapsulated in an oil-in-water emulsion that absorbs quickly into the skin so the sunscreen doesn’t feel greasy.

 

Then glow and protect your body with these two perfect picks:

 

Kopari Rose Gold Sun Shield Body Glow Sunscreen, $42

 

 

Kopari Sun Shield Body Glow Sunscreen, $42, is a lightweight gel sunscreen infused with vitamin E, macadamia, and hibiscus oils available in SPF 30-50 in shades of amber, gold, or rose with UVA and UVB coverage.

 

Isle Nourishing Body Mist SPF 50 with Sea Moss and Hyaluronic Acid, $26

 

 Cay Skin Nourishing Body Mist SPF 50 with Sea Moss and Hyaluronic Acid, $26. It is easy to apply spray. It offers broad-spectrum UV protection, is silicone-free, and is safe for sensitive skin. It is non-comedogenic, vegan, and non-comedogenic. Model Winnie Harlow has built a winning formula with this line!

And then there are those products that are multitaskers or are perfect for on-the-go. Here are two sun protectors to try:

 

R&R Sun Elix, SPF 30, $22

The Multitasker: Undefined Beauty R&R Sun Elixir, SPF 30 Glow Oil, $22  A fast-absorbing waterless formula infused with Vitamin C, Rosehip, Milk Thistle, and Moringa that offers broad spectrum protection and can be applied to skin, scalp, hair, and body.

 

Colorscience Sunforgettable Total Protection Brush-On Shield SPF 50

 

Colorscience Sunforgettable Total Protection Brush-On Shield SPF 50 in Deep, $69. It is the best way to reapply sunscreen over your makeup daily. It is infused with hyaluronic acid to restore moisture to the skin and antioxidants. It is safe for sensitive skin and adds protection without disrupting your look.

 

How long does your sunscreen last?

These days, sunscreen generally has an expiration date. But it typically lasts about three years from the time you purchase it. If you use it the way you should, it probably won’t last that long. If you don’t see an expiration date, use a Sharpie to write the date of purchase on it.

To keep it in optimal condition, follow these tips from the Mayo Clinic:

  • Don’t leave sunscreen out in the heat or direct sunlight.
  • Wrap it in a towel, keep it in the shade, or place it in a cooler.
  • If the color or texture of your sunscreen changes significantly, toss it.

 

The post Our 2024 Guide to Sunscreens: 16 Picks for Darker Skin appeared first on Black Health Matters.

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BHM Talks to Novara Beauty Founder Reshona Jessamy on Beauty Meeting Mental Health https://blackhealthmatters.com/bhm-talks-to-novara-beauty-founder-reshona-jessamy-on-beauty-meeting-mental-health/ Fri, 24 May 2024 19:18:57 +0000 https://blackhealthmatters.com/?p=42063 Reshona Jessamy shares how she wants to inspire others through skincare, emphasizing mental health. She is transparent about how the way she was treated in a corporate law environment caused […]

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Reshona Jessamy shares how she wants to inspire others through skincare, emphasizing mental health. She is transparent about how the way she was treated in a corporate law environment caused her to fall into a serious state of depression, and she attempted suicide. Making beauty products became therapy for her; how creating a luxury business with an incredible mission attached to benefiting suicide prevention gave her a renewed purpose. Stay tuned and listen to our conversation to learn how she launched Novara Beauty, a luxury skincare line now available in Nordstrom.

Check out our chat here or read the full transcript below:

 

CC  00:00

Hi, this is Corynne Corbett, Editorial Director for Black Health Matters. And I’m talking to Reshona Jessamy, founder and CEO of Novara, about the intersection of mental health with beauty and why this is important. So, talk to me about mental health. Tell me why mental health and beauty are so important to you, and talk about why you started Novara.

 

Reshona Jessamy  00:33

Mental Health and Beauty really go hand in hand. I think when you feel good on the inside, you shop differently with confidence, and grit. But I think also too, when you apply products that also make you feel good. And you’re taking that time to really self care and treat yourself and it’s a treat for you, as you apply your moisturizer. As you apply your serum. I think those two are really important because then you start your day off on the best footing. And

 

CC  01:02

let’s talk about rituals of self care rituals, the times that you take to wash your face to apply moisturizer, to apply serum, that those moments of quiet those moments of application, those moments are good for soul. Those moments are good for the spirit. I bet

 

01:28

they are. And I think those moments recharges you. I think for me, I’m really big on my faith. And I think in those moments, you can be still. And you can literally take two minutes to be grateful to get on the line of gratitude. And so mentally prepare yourself in those two minutes or five minutes as you do your routine for your day.

 

CC  01:50

So tell us what’s in your line.

 

Reshona Jessamy  01:52

So the line contains six products is called the waterfall collection. It’s named the Waterfall Collection because it focuses heavily on hydration. And those six products are a cleanser, an essence, to serums and two moisturizers. So I love the cleanser because having a cleanser is more important than people think it really creates the canvas for the rest of the products to follow. And our cleanser. It’s gentle, but it’s really really effective at just removing the dirt and impurities from your skin. When you’re done, your skin isn’t feeling tight and dry like it’s stripped of all the oils. It’s really got a lot of centella asiatica extract in there. And hyaluronic acid to really add the hydration, while cleansing. So I think that’s really important.

 

CC  02:42

Key Ingredients and moisturizer. In your essence, I know you have an essence too. So we don’t often think as black women of the importance of an essence in a product in our routine.

 

Reshona Jessamy  02:56

We don’t and it was important to me to formulate an essence and not a toner. And so an essence is important because what it does is it floods your face with moisture, going into the deeper layers of the skin, preparing it to absorb the other products that you will apply after and that’s why that’s so important. Once again, you’re creating the base. It’s like putting on tile, you have to put your stuff first and then you add the tile. So I think it’s really important to have an essence in your routine. key ingredients in our essence. So Santelli is yada extract. It’s just a miraculous plant. I was told about this plant when I traveled to China. They actually have been using it in their culture for over 2000 years. So it helps with the production of cream asides. It helps to stimulate collagen production. More importantly, it helps with hydration, it gives to skin intense hydration. And so one of the reasons why this is one of our hero ingredients is because the line focuses on hydration. So key ingredients in the essence centella asiatica extract to Manu extract which is really important Aloe which will help to smooth the skin help with any sort of irritations but it also has hyaluronic acid and lactic acids to really help remove some of the dead skin cells. It also has peptides in there so I think it’s just an overall great product. If you were to just get too out of the line, I will recommend the essence and the theorem.Talk about the serum what’s in the serum. So the serum oh I love the serum. I don’t have a favorite child out of the collection. The serum has triple hyaluronic acid. It has basil extract. It also has centella asiatica extract in there also because like I said we want it to follow through with our hearin ingredient. It also has lotus flower. So in India, this is just a skincare jam. It really helps with cream asides, pre Maasai production. It helps to keep fine lines and wrinkles at bay. And it really helps to give your skin the soft suppleness and triple hyaluronic acid. So high low and medium molecular weights to really go into the deeper layers of the skin flooding your skin with hydration.

 

CC  05:19

Excellent. Moisturizing, right? Yes,

 

Reshona Jessamy  05:23

there are two types of moisturizers. So one of the moisturizers has oil and the other ones is not 30% of women in the US suffer from oily skin. So we wanted to accommodate everyone. And the moisturizer is just an overall gem A little goes a long way. And it just deeply nourishes and hydrates the skin with hydration.

 

CC  05:44

Love it sounds so luscious.

 

05:48

It is it feels velvety to the touches you put on the moisturizer. It just feels like your skin is saying yes, yes,

 

CC  05:56

yes. Yes. So Novara a luxury skincare line from a black woman now. It’s coming soon. Yes,

 

Reshona Jessamy  06:07

it’s coming soon. I don’t think I answered the other question. Why did start the line? You want me to go there?

 

CC  06:14

Yes. So why did you start alive? For us, and for everyone. But it really answers the need for us because we need hydration. We really did. Everyone

 

Reshona Jessamy  06:29

needs hydration. That’s the thing. A lot of people think that there is a magic ingredient or surgery that really will help with fine lines and wrinkles or helping you with healthy skin. But it’s hydration, hydrating your skin will give you healthy skin. And hydration will really help to give you radiance, and glow. And really reduce the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles. Obviously, that’s in addition to the science backed ingredients in botanicals, but it’s really the basis of the ingredients that gives the skin hydration that it needs. But you’re right, I think we all need hydration, the products are for everyone. My mental health journey is not only unique to me, because as we know mental health does not discriminate based on status, or race or socioeconomic status. So I thought it was important to create a line for all skin types and skin tones. But what really led me to create the line was after losing my dream job, a really big law firm, depression resurface and I spiraled into a really dark place. Because all my life I’d worked to get this dream job, I knew I wanted to be an attorney. And so I kind of really put my head down and focused really hard on finishing school and landing the dream job. And it wasn’t just the fact that I was unjustly fired from a job. It was really that my identity and my self worth was tied to this dream job. So after I started working in the firm, the workplace started to become really toxic. The way that I was treated compared to my white counterparts, male specifically, was just not the same treatment. And so then I was unjustly fired. And that caused me to spiral I felt like my entire world crumbled, and depression resurface. And I spiraled into a dark place. I didn’t see a way out, I honestly could not see a way out. And I attempted suicide. After I attempted suicide. I went to therapy for the first time, I went back to the old hobby of formulating, and I really leaned into my faith, I leaned into my faith stronger than I was leaning in before. And I’m a really big proponent in everything that happens to you in life. There’s a lesson to be learned from it. So once I overcame depression, I started really reflecting on what is the lesson that I was supposed to learn from this, I had a newfound appreciation for life and living. And I knew that there was a lesson a bigger lesson that I need to learn from this. And so I just started doing a lot of reflecting. One evening, I was sitting on the couch and I was talking to my boyfriend. He’s now my husband. And I was just telling him, you know, the reasons why I really attempted suicide was because I felt that I wasn’t enough. I felt unloved. I felt I wasn’t worthy. And I just wish the other women knew that their lives matter, and that they are loved. And he said to me, they just need to hear it. They just need to hear that you are loved that you are enough that we love you. And someone needs to tell them and I let that sit for a few days. And as I started to think about it more, I thought to myself, I can be the one to tell them. I thought to myself, this is the purpose. This is the lesson that I was supposed to get from the suicide attempt and It was an aha moment, it was a literal lightbulb moment. I can be the one to tell women. And I can do it through skincare. So I started mixing formulas in my kitchen. I used to do it in high school. And it became a happy place. It was a getaway. For me, it was so therapeutic, similar to how people do knitting, I look forward to like, what am I going to buy the market today, as I came home to mix, it made me so happy. And I thought I can use skincare, what I found my happiness in as a vehicle to accomplish the mission of really empowering women. Because this is a journey, a lot of people traverse. They might not say to you and to be really candid. Whenever I tell my story, I would say two and three people tell me, I’ve had those thoughts. I feel that way. I’ve been there. And so for me, that was really the conversation with my boyfriend at the time. That led me to think about creating the line,

 

CC  11:05

such a beautiful story, purposeful story, and it is going to help so many people because it is real.

 

Reshona Jessamy  11:15

Yes, that was my life. We’re

 

CC  11:19

talking about black health matters, that mental health matters. We’re talking about skincare, but it’s like using mental health and skin care together to help people to live purposefully.

 

Reshona Jessamy  11:34

That’s my dream.

 

CC  11:36

So it’s the transparency that I so appreciate you. Thank you so much, letting yourself be used in this way. Because it’s not easy to do that. No,

 

Reshona Jessamy  11:51

I will be the first to tell you it is not easy to get on a podcast with someone you’ve never known. And talk about such a difficult time that I experienced and talk about suicide. Mental health, I think, is now more of a part of the conversation. But I think suicide is still not at the forefront of the conversation, and we don’t talk about it enough. And so yes, it’s really difficult to share my story and to continue to share my story. But I think once I realize the purpose is bigger than me. I then became more encouraged to be able to share my story because I really think it’s important to use it as a beacon of light to help other women to know I was there. I know what it feels like. But you know what, even in your hardest times, there’s a light at the end of the tunnel.

 

CC  12:46

Thank you, my darling. I really, really so appreciate you.

 

Reshona Jessamy  12:51

Thank you so much for having me him so grateful that I got a chance to connect.

 

CC  12:55

You have a wonderful day. You too.

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Want to Create Salon-Worthy Hair at Home? Try These 8 Tips https://blackhealthmatters.com/want-to-create-salon-worthy-hair-at-home-try-these-8-tips/ Fri, 10 May 2024 21:38:10 +0000 https://blackhealthmatters.com/?p=41875 Caring for and loving our hair is key to our self-care journey. Sometimes, it is hard to feel the love when wash day seems to take all day. Not to […]

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Caring for and loving our hair is key to our self-care journey. Sometimes, it is hard to feel the love when wash day seems to take all day. Not to mention wondering if you are using the right products correctly. We reached out to our trio of experts: Los Angeles’ celebrity stylist Marquita Lynch, who does Tia Mowry’s tresses., Rochelle Chappelle and Atlanta-based stylist and trichologist Keka Heron for tips to achieve and maintain healthy hair with your own hands! They offered their suggestions on how to streamline washday and make it more efficient for all hair types, including:

Always have these tools on hand.

You probably already have a wide-tooth comb, a detangling brush, a diffuser attachment for a blow dryer, a microfiber towel, or an old T-shirt for drying after washing. Heron says level up with a focus on the scalp. Add a scalp scrubber to your arsenal to increase blood circulation. Invest in a hair steamer to help conditioning and treatments penetrate the hair and the scalp.

Make pre-poo optional (except in one special instance).

If you fell down the rabbit hole of black hair care influencers, you would think pre-poo, adding oil or conditioner to the hair before shampooing, was the holy grail of healthy hair and, therefore, an essential step. Not so, explains Lynch; it is helpful if you have difficulty detangling or coming out of a protective style because it adds more moisture.

Enhance your wash technique.

For the best wash experience, detangle your hair before wetting. Wet hair thoroughly. Begin with a clarifying shampoo (we love 4U by Tia’s Clarifying Shampoo with Apple Cider Vinegar ), gently massage into the scalp in circular motions, and work your way down. Follow with a moisturizing shampoo like Pattern Hydration Shampoo to replenish moisture. Wash every seven to ten days. Be gentle with wet hair, as it is vulnerable to breakage.

Make gray great.

Gray hair requires special attention due to its unique characteristics, maintains Chappelle. The pigment has evaporated from the hair strand, leaving it opaque; use clear gloss and violet shampoos. These products help protect and seal the cuticles, making the hair structure flexible against damaging UV rays, which can tarnish gray hair. Play up silver strands with Maison 276 Hydrate Shampoo.

Save a weave.

Sounds daunting, but the key to cleansing a weave or extensions is prioritizing the scalp. Chappelle suggests before and after installing them, consider scalp exfoliation to remove dead skin cells, allowing scalp and hair follicles to breathe. Ensure thorough drying of braids underneath extensions or weaves to prevent bacterial growth; reach for TPH Maskin & Relaxing Scalp Mask to break down scaly buildup.

Want to Create Salon-Worthy Hair at Home?

Work with a wardrobe of conditioners.

Having a wardrobe of conditioners can be beneficial depending on your hair needs. Lynch recommends rotating conditioners to keep hair from getting used to the product, which decreases efficiency and causes build-up. Keep your hair hydrated and strong with a protein-strengthening conditioner like African Pride Feel It Formula Peppermint, Rosemary & Sage Strengthening Mask. Rotate with a moisturizing conditioner (coddle strands with Cecred Moisturizing Deep Conditioner ). Both boost strands’ shine, suppleness, and strength. Maintain during the week with a spritz of Leave-in Conditioner Spray like As I Am Rosemary Water, which is great for temporary moisture and detangling. Note it’s not a stand-in for the deep conditioners, as leave-in conditioning alone will eventually lead to dryness, dullness, and loss of curl pattern.

Want to Create Salon-Worthy Hair at Home?

Moisturize by the minutes.

It is not necessary to leave a conditioner on overnight. Experts recommend following the manufacturer’s instructions and, in lieu of instructions, keeping the conditioner no longer than 30 minutes. Leaving a conditioner in too long can make your hair limp and may affect how styling products work.

Set up for successful styling.

Gone are the days when it took a spritz of water, a hooded drier, and a blue grease finish to style your hair. Healthy, relaxed, and natural hair go-to products include setting mousse for a smooth roller set. Get The Doux Crazy Sexy CurlHoney Setting Foam. Look to a curl cream to add body and fight frizz. Try 4U BY Tia Soft Curl Defining Mousse. Round out your hair essentials with a heat protectant, a gel for sleek styles, and hydrating oil to finish. Braids and loc girlies shouldn’t be without a natural lightweight oil, rosemary oil, or African Pride Feel It Formula Peppermint, Rosemary & Sage Strengthening Oil. Keep scalp buildup down by hitting your parts with a scalp soothing treatment like Briogeo Scalp Revival Buildup Detox Spray To quell the itch.

Want to Create Salon-Worthy Hair at Home?
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Are Whole Body Deodorants Worth Trying? https://blackhealthmatters.com/are-whole-body-deodorants-worth-trying/ Wed, 01 May 2024 19:40:39 +0000 https://blackhealthmatters.com/?p=41734 You may have noticed the influx of commercials and media coverage on whole-body deodorants. These products are precisely what their names allude to: they are designed to combat body odor […]

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You may have noticed the influx of commercials and media coverage on whole-body deodorants. These products are precisely what their names allude to: they are designed to combat body odor in multiple areas. Even though we are primarily taught to put deodorant on our armpits, they are not the only parts of our bodies that can sweat and produce odor. Other body regions can produce sweat and body odor, such as the groin, feet, skin folds, thighs, pubic area, chest, and buttocks.

We decided to dive into the topic of whole-body deodorants and get professional guidance to help you determine if it is worth trying. We turned to a board-certified dermatologist and dermatologic surgeon, Dr. Brooke A. Jackson, for insight into whole-body deodorants.

BHM: On a molecular level, how do whole-body deodorants work?

Dr. Jackson: Let’s discuss deodorant versus antiperspirant. Deodorants minimize odor through antibacterial properties and fragrance of some sort. Antiperspirants reduce sweat and odor. Often, chemicals such as aluminum are used to minimize sweat. Aluminum salts dissolve on your skin, blocking your pores from secreting sweat.

Over the past few years there has been some concern over the use of aluminum in antiperspirants as a potential link to cancer.

Because aluminum prevents you from sweating, some proponents of aluminum-free products believe that the action of aluminum-containing products that prevent you from sweating out toxins could eventually lead to cancer. Scientific evidence to support this claim is lacking.

According to the American Cancer Society, no clear link between antiperspirants and breast cancer has been established, and breast cancer tissue has not been proven to contain higher concentrations of aluminum. Toxins are excreted from the body through the liver and the kidneys, not through sweat.

BHM: Are whole-body deodorants safe?

Dr. Jackson: Generally, yes, let’s drill down on that. Most whole-body deodorants do not contain aluminum. However, they contain potential irritants such as fragrance, alcohol, and astringents, which change the skin’s pH, making it less hospitable to odor-causing bacteria. Patients who have eczema or sensitive skin may find these products problematic. While aluminum absorption is minimal, the effect of whole-body aluminum-containing products has not been studied.

BHM: Can whole-body deodorant be used everywhere?

Dr. Jackson: Theoretically, yes, but practically, why would you need to? These products are not intended to be body lotions. The use should be limited to those areas on your body prone to odor or excessive sweat. These products are for external use only.

BHM: Are there any potential side effects of whole-body deodorants? If so, how can people reduce them?

Dr. Jackson: Alcohol, astringents, and fragrance can be issues. Approach with caution if you have sensitive skin

BHM: In your experience, are natural whole-body deodorants safer or more effective than their counterparts?

Dr. Jackson: natural deodorants often contain botanicals and fragrances, which can also be irritating.

BHM: Do you have any product recommendations for whole-body deodorants?

Dr. Jackson: Wear breathable wicking fabrics such as Coolmax, dri-fit, and Under Armor. Try going commando at night and maintain a healthy weight, as moisture, sweat, and bacteria tend to be more of an issue in those who are overweight.

If you are considering trying this new hygiene trend, look into our list of the top 3 whole-body deodorants.

1. Dove is our first choice as it promises freshness for up to 72 hours and prioritizes odor control and skin health. This whole-body deodorant can go beyond your underarms and even alleviate chafing. Infused with shea butter and vitamins B3 and E and coming in at $11 -$13 1Dove’s unscented whole-body deodorant could be perfect for you.

2. Lume is another versatile product for odor control, as it also guarantees 72 hours of protection. Depending on the type of formula, it can be found for $20 or below; we suggest the unscented formula as it is free from essential oils and fragrance oils and fully embraces the aspects of its natural ingredients.

3. Next up, we have Native. This brand is quite famous for bringing natural alternatives to the deodorant aisles, but now, they have also joined the whole-body deodorant market. According to their website, their unscented whole-body deodorant is clinically proven to provide 72 hours of protection. It is also made without aluminum, parabens, baking soda, or talc. For $13, you can give Native a try.

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Length Check: The Myths and Realities of Growing Long Hair https://blackhealthmatters.com/length-check-the-myths-and-realities-of-growing-long-hair/ Wed, 01 May 2024 17:18:17 +0000 https://blackhealthmatters.com/?p=41717 Hair growth moments from TikTok influencers promoting hair growth remedies like hair oiling/slugging, a rosemary and caffeine mixture to promote hair growth, and hair cycling similar to skin cycling are […]

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Hair growth moments from TikTok influencers promoting hair growth remedies like hair oiling/slugging, a rosemary and caffeine mixture to promote hair growth, and hair cycling similar to skin cycling are on the radar of those who want to achieve the ultimate hair goal— healthy long hair. But does that look the same for everyone?

Beyoncé’s recent unveiling of her natural hair entered the chat, and Pandora’s box opened. For years, the singer’s hair fueled endless rumors and speculation, highlighting a troubling gap in our understanding of hair health and care. This gap has led to misinformation within our community and contributed to the increase in hair loss. Our community is bombarded with an overwhelming array of hair growth remedies. Often, these products promise exponential growth and flawless retention. However, the reality is more complex.

Everyone’s Hair is Not The Same (Not Even on Own Heads)

Various combinations of hair types and textures make up one head of hair. Shaped by oval follicles, textured hair naturally grows outward and upward in a curved, coily, or wiry pattern. This unique growth pattern is a flat helical twist that defines the curl. Textured hair often struggles with dryness and length retention. The natural oils (sebum) produced by the scalp have difficulty traveling down the hair shaft due to the bends and curves, leaving the hair drier, brittle, and prone to breakage, especially on the ends.

Next time you do a length check, keep these factors in mind. If your hair grows out and not down, you most likely have an oval-shaped follicle, and your length may look like an afro or coils and curls that stack on top of each other v. straight and wavy hair that tends to grow flat and down. Genetics plays a leading role in determining how our natural hair grows.

Locs, for example, thrive with minimal manipulation due to their structure. Relaxed hair faces a different reality. The new growth at the root has a different texture than the relaxed strands, creating weak points prone to breakage. This is due to the relaxer altering the hair’s chemical structure and weakening the natural (disulfide) bonds that strengthen hair. Braids can also promote growth by minimizing manipulation, similar to locs. However, leaving them in too long, product build up on the scalp, using too much synthetic hair or braiding sections too tight can lead to breakage and scalp irritation(folliculitis). It’s important to remember that long hair isn’t achievable for everyone.

Diet & Lifestyle

Beyond the growth cycle, diet, medical diagnosis, and lifestyle choices significantly
impact hair health. A balanced diet rich in essential nutrients like vitamins A, B, C, D, E,
iron, and protein provides the building blocks for strong hair growth. Some medical
diagnoses like thyroid disease and high blood pressure medications can
disrupt hair health.

Rethinking the Growth “Fixes”

Some of the oils can cause the hair to dry as most oils are sealants and will seal in the hair’s condition; for example, if you put oil on dry hair, the oil will seal the dryness. To keep hair healthy, it needs moisture. Humectants, like vegetable glycerin that attract water to hair strands, are ideal for moisture retention. Emollients, like shea butter, coat hair to prevent dryness and itching. However, occlusives, like coconut oil, can build up on the hair shaft and clog the scalp. Not all oils are created equally. Some can contribute to hair loss and thinning. To find customized solutions for your hair, check out myavana.com.

How to Hold On to What You Grow

Length retention refers to minimizing breakage and retaining the hair that grows. The goal is to nurture healthy growth and prevent split ends from traveling up the hair shaft, compromising length. Contrary to popular belief, regular trims don’t hinder hair growth. A minimum commitment of a year and consistent care from a trained professional can yield positive growth and healthy hair results. Patience is vital. Hair growth is a slow and steady process. Unrealistic expectations can lead to frustration and disconnection from your hair’s natural path.

Embrace the  Journey

The key to healthy hair growth and length retention is a holistic approach. This means understanding your hair’s natural growth phases, incorporating a balanced diet, awareness of medical conditions and medications, managing stress, and embracing your genetic makeup. Remember, hair growth is a journey, not a destination; let us embrace and celebrate the beauty of diverse hair textures and lengths within the Black community.

3 Strategies for Hair Length Retention

1. Regular Trims:

Split ends are like tip burns on a plant leaf; they travel up the hair shaft, causing breakage. Prioritizing regular trims every 4-6, 6-8, or 8-10 weeks (depending on your growth cycle) to remove split ends and encourage healthy growth.

2. Gentle Styling.

Rough handling and harsh combing or brushing can lead to breakage. Use a wide-tooth comb or detangling brush, starting from the ends and working your way up. Low-tension versatile styles without added hair like braids, twists, and bantu knots that can minimize manipulation and reduce breakage. Use satin or silk pillowcases, scarves, or bonnets to prevent friction from resources like GlowbyDaye.

3. Moisturize.

Dryness makes hair brittle and prone to breakage. Steam/Hydration treatments with conditioners specifically for your hair’s unique needs, regular use of a leave-in, and drinking water are essential for maintaining moisture. Remember the hair type, texture, and porosity will determine the hair-specific moisturizing need

 

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How to Safely Buy Wigs Online: A Black Women’s Guide https://blackhealthmatters.com/how-to-safely-buy-wig-online-a-black-womens-guide/ Mon, 08 Apr 2024 19:21:11 +0000 https://blackhealthmatters.com/?p=41425 A recent viral video of a young woman who ordered a quick-fix wig online contracted a viral skin disorder (Molluscum Contagiosum) —[see the original story here]. This skin infection causes […]

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A recent viral video of a young woman who ordered a quick-fix wig online contracted a viral skin disorder (Molluscum Contagiosum) —[see the original story here]. This skin infection causes bumps and can spread all over the body. And the condition can be contagious. This story highlights the importance of safe online wig shopping.

While the wig market booms (projected at $15.27 billion by 2034, according to futuremarketinginsights.com, prioritizing health remains critical.

Wigs offer endless possibilities for self-expression and convenience. However, some online sellers prioritize affordability over quality. This can lead to wigs with unknown materials, poor sanitation, and potential scalp irritation to cause infection.

 An Informed Shopping for Healthy Hair

  • Beware Bargains: Good wigs require quality materials. Super-cheap wigs, often made from synthetic materials, can irritate, tangle, and look cheap.
  • Question Reviews: Glowing reviews in broken English raise red flags. Seek detailed reviews with pictures from verified buyers mentioning hair texture, cap construction, and wearability for textured hair like ours.
  • See Clearly to Buy Wisely: Blurry photos hide imperfections. Reputable sellers showcase high-resolution images from various angles for examining wig construction and texture. Don’t hesitate to zoom in.
  • Know Your Material, Know Your Care: A good description details the wig material (human hair, synthetic blend) and cap construction (lace front, full lace). Most importantly, look for care instructions. Proper washing extends lifespan and keeps your scalp healthy.
  • Look For The Return Policy: It Is Your Safety Net: Sometimes things go wrong. Ensure a clear return policy if the wig doesn’t work out. A good return policy signals confidence in their product and customer satisfaction.

Prioritizing Wellness Beyond Beauty

  • Research Beyond the Seller’s Facade: Don’t just focus on the wig; research the seller’s reputation. Look for reviews on independent platforms or social media to get a well-rounded picture of their customer service, product quality, and overall experience.
  • Search for Customer Photos and Videos: Want to see the wig styled on Black women? Search for customer photos and videos using the wig’s name or brand. This reveals how the wig performs in different lighting and styling scenarios.
  • Embrace Customization: Some sellers offer customization options like adjusting the length, pre-plucking the hairline for a natural look, or adding color.
  • Don’t Be Shy, Ask Away! Reputable sellers are happy to answer your questions. From sizing to care instructions, don’t hesitate to contact their customer service.
  • Invest Wisely for Style & Health While a licensed hairstylist specializing in wigs might be safest, these tips empower informed online wig purchases. Invest in your confidence, health, and style by becoming a savvy online wig shopper.

Bonus Tip: Look for Black-owned wig companies like trueandpuretextures.com that cater to Black hair textures and needs. They often understand the importance of quality materials and prioritize healthy hair journeys.

 Additional Resources

A Guide to Hair Fibers

Virgin hair vs. Remy hair

Writer: Erin H. Maybin is a licensed Cosmetologist in NY, PA & CA, Educator, Advocate, and influential member of the NYS Appearance Enhancement Advisory Committee. As EVP of Education Development and co-founder of the Natural Hairstyle & Braid Coalition, Erin spearheads the transformation of textured hair education in both private and public sectors.

Her groundbreaking initiative, Hair S.T.E.A.M. LAB™, is an education platform that explores the science and artistry of hair using steam.

Erin is also the co-author of Laid to the Side: Disrupting the Silence of Black Girls Hair Stories in School.

For more information: www.erinhmaybin.com

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5 Black-Owned Clean Beauty Brands To Cover You From Head to Toe https://blackhealthmatters.com/5-clean-beauty-brands-to-cover-you-from-head-to-toe/ Wed, 28 Feb 2024 15:31:16 +0000 https://blackhealthmatters.com/?p=40645 Last year, we spent $8 Billion on cosmetics and other personal care products, according to NielsenIQ. But some of those products we’ve invested in may do more harm than good […]

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Last year, we spent $8 Billion on cosmetics and other personal care products, according to NielsenIQ. But some of those products we’ve invested in may do more harm than good because they contain a higher concentration of endocrine disruptors, such as phthalates (an ingredient in fragrances, nail polish, and makeup) and parabens (preservatives in various types of personal care products), which have been linked to reproductive issues and cancers. Many of us have not explored clean beauty as an alternative. These products may be better choices because they aren’t formulated without these potentially harmful ingredients. And yes, there are Black beauty founders making products in the space. We’ve chosen five that can keep you looking good from head to toe.

Sienna Naturals

You may be familiar with Sienna Natural because founder Hannah Diop’s partner in this clean haircare brand is actress, producer, and woman who roots for Everybody Black, Issa Rae. But this line should not be confused with a celebrity haircare brand. But its Rooted Technology, a clean approach to chemistry and formulation, makes this brand worth exploring. We love that you can shop by hair needs (dryness, hair loss, definition, or damage) or by individual products. All their offerings, including the Daily Elixir Scalp Oil, $28,  are responsibly sourced, vegan, cruelty-free, and dermatology-tested.

Rebundle

We love protective styles, but many of us have reactions to the synthetic braiding hair we are using, from itching to breakouts. Rinsing braiding hair with apple cider vinegar has been the go-to, but another option exists. And where is all that hair going when we are done? Enter Rebundle, founded by Ciara Imani, who has created the braidbetter solution created with ReGen Hair Fiber “using repurposed biopolymers, which makes it 97 percent biobased, earning the USDA’s Certified Biobased Product label.” This alternative is better for the scalp. Their line is available in Earth Tones and Sun Tones (our fave) for $45. They have a recycling program, and they accept any hair that isn’t attached to a weft.

People of Color Nail Polish

Jacqueline Carrington, founder of People of Color Nail Polish, created shades that look great on our skin tones. One of her goals was to change the narrative of what she saw growing up and nail visuals that never reflected us. So, she has created shades with a range of brown skin tones in mind that are non-toxic, vegan, and cruelty-free in shades, including Brown Sugar Babe, Geechee Blue, and Mother of Earth, which cost $12.

Marie Hunter Beauty

It took five years for Marie Hunter Beauty’s founder, KeNisha Ruff, to find the ethically sourced ingredients she needed to design her line, which includes lipsticks, skincare, haircare, home fragrance, and leather goods. Her Matte Lipsticks,$40,  for example, are formulated with moisturizing oils like Argan, Olive, Grapeseed, Meadowfoam, Camelina, Murumuru, plus Mango and Shea Butter, to help deliver long-lasting color without drying the lips out.

 

 

SkinMuse

When you want a taste of luxury, look at SkinMuse, which blends West African beauty practices and rich ingredients to create products that help you create your skin ritual. The founder, Ezinne Iroanaya, has created a line that blends luxurious benefits with clean beauty and a beauty-first ethos. Her Devine Body Oil, $50, is made with  Egyptian Honey, Moroccan Oil, Rosehip Oil, and Vitamin E. It moisturizes the skin while a soft, powdery scent lingers.

 

 

 

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7 Moisturizing Lip Products We Love https://blackhealthmatters.com/7-moisturizing-lip-products-we-love/ Wed, 31 Jan 2024 14:00:41 +0000 https://blackhealthmatters.com/?p=40326 Finding relief for dry lips can sometimes be challenging. Whether the dryness is caused by cold, dry winter weather, eating spicy food, sun damage, or unconsciously licking them, it can […]

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Finding relief for dry lips can sometimes be challenging. Whether the dryness is caused by cold, dry winter weather, eating spicy food, sun damage, or unconsciously licking them, it can be an ongoing problem. Applying a balm can be even more maddening, especially when our lips seem drier, and we constantly reapply it.

Why Some Balms Dry Out Your Lips

The American Academy of Dermatology suggests that we check the label of our go-to balms. Ingredients that include camphor, eucalyptus, menthol, lanolin, salicylic acid, fragrance, and flavors like cinnamon, citrus, mint, and peppermint may be irritating. Cooling, plumping, or exfoliating products can worsen matters. Even balms that are formulated with glycerin and hyaluronic acid can be problematic because they also attract moisture to the skin. But in low humidity, they pull moisture out of your skin, leaving lips drier than they were before.

The Ingredients That Work Best

Dermatologists recommend looking for lip products that strengthen the skin with emollients like ceramides or are occlusive, which means they seal in moisture —like petroleum jelly, coconut oil, or beeswax. Other hydrating ingredients include castor seed oil, hemp seed oil, mineral oil, shea butter, and dimethicone.

Traditional Balm Picks

Aquaphor Lip Protectant & Sunscreen, $7.54, offers SPF 30 protection, is fragrance-free, doesn’t contain dyes, and is paraben-free.

L’Occictane Shea Butter Ultra Rich Lip Balm, $13, has Shea Butter, Sunflower Oil, Vitamin E, and Beeswax.

Summer Fridays Lip Butter Balm in Vanilla, $24, is 100% vegan, contains Shea and Murumuru Seed Butters and vegan waxes, and offers cruelty-free hydration.

Vaseline Advanced Healing Lip Therapy is ideal if petroleum jelly has always been your go-to.

Lip Oil Picks

A lip oil can be a great choice if you want hydration and sometimes want a hint of color.

Burt’s Bees Hydrating Lip Oil with Sweet Almond Oil, $6.59, is a 100% natural formula that contains responsibly sourced ingredients that hydrate and help retain moisture.

 

Ami Colé Lip Treatment Oil, $20 (each), combines Baobab Seed. Camellia and Passionfruit Oil with a light wash of color. Available in six shades.

Fenty Skin Fenty Treatz Hydrating and Strengthening Lip Oil, $24, mixes Sweet Cherry, Jojoba, and Rose Hip Fruit Oils, and Barbados and Wild Cherry Extracts to nourish, soothe, and condition lips.

In addition to using a product that offers hydrating properties to our lips, we also need to ensure we get our H20.

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Check Your Makeup Bag: What Cosmetics Should You Keep or Toss? https://blackhealthmatters.com/check-your-makeup-bag-what-expired-makeup/ Wed, 10 Jan 2024 18:41:02 +0000 https://blackhealthmatters.com/?p=39885 When was the last time you cleaned out your makeup bag or drawer for expired makeup? Be honest. Whether you are a minimalist or like to put on the glam, […]

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When was the last time you cleaned out your makeup bag or drawer for expired makeup? Be honest. Whether you are a minimalist or like to put on the glam, your makeup doesn’t last forever. Every category of product has an expiration date, aka shelf life. The FDA says this is the time for a product to look and act as expected and be safe for use.

We asked Shenelle Mays-Smith, a makeup artist and skincare expert, to guide us on when to toss our makeup. “It is important to keep track of how old your cosmetics are because you are putting these products on your skin, which is our largest organ,” she explains. “And we are applying makeup near our mouths and eyes that secrete fluids, so we must be hygienic and sanitary.”

Your products can be compromised by how you use and store them. For example, if you dip your fingers into a product, preservatives guard against microorganisms for only so long before bacteria and fungi grow. And if you are storing your beauty stash in the bathroom, the moisture accelerates bacteria growth. In addition, expired products may clog pores and trigger breakouts.

Check out her advice below and some picks of products you might want to add this year.

Eye Products

Maybelline Volum’ Express The Falsie Mascara, $7.99

This category includes mascara, eyeliner (pencils and liquid), and eyeshadow (powder, cream, and liquid).

Mascara

“When you pump your mascara wand before applying it, you pump in air and bacteria,” Mays-Smith explains. It is safe to use for up to three months. But you can also tell it’s time to replace it when the product clumps.

Eyeliner

Mays-Smith points out that liquid and gel eyeliners have a shelf life similar to mascara, even if they are retractable. Replace it after two to three months. “Eyeliner pencils are different because we sharpen them. Each time we do, we are revealing a new product.” Are you sharpening your pencils? Mays-Smith says you don’t have to do it with each use, but you should do it often.

Eyeshadow

Cream eyeshadow lasts three to six months. Since it is often applied with the fingertips, please wash your hands before using it, or bacteria may grow on it over time. Powder eyeshadow has more longevity than other eye products. It can last a year or more. But if the product is cracked or falling apart, or you have had an eye infection, replace it.

Naja Hall Peacock Paint Cool Night Duochrome Shadow, $34

Face

This category includes foundations (liquid, stick, cream, and cream to powder), Concealer, and Powder.

Foundation

Water-based liquid foundations can last up to a year. Cream-based stick foundations have a similar shelf life. But if your product contains organic ingredients, May-Smith says it may be good for three to six months if you keep it refrigerated.

Oil-based formulas last a little longer, up to 18 months. The product may separate between uses, but if the formula doesn’t reconstitute effortlessly, it is time to replace it. She says, “It’s like ketchup. If it is very watery at the top, toss it.”

According to Mays-Smith, packaging may impact the longevity of your face products. Squeeze tubes and pump bottles allow you to control how much of the product is applied, and there is less room for cross-contamination. Cream foundations are good for between six months and a year. She recommends keeping a pancake-style cream-to-powder foundation for no longer than a year. “It can go rancid and oxidize on the skin (changing how the product appears),” Mays-Smith says.

Loose powder has one of the best shelf lives because it is oil-free and is packaged with a sifter top that reduces contamination. They can be good up to two years from opening. Pressed powder can also last a year or more, but if it cracks and crumbles before that, toss it.

How long you can keep a concealer depends on its formula. Cream concealers last three to six months; liquid concealers can last up to a year, and powder concealers last even longer.

 

Cheeks

How often you replace your blush depends on its formulation, Mays-Smith points out. Like a cream-based foundation, replace your cream blush every six months to a year. Depending on your hygienic practices, powder blushes can last a year, maybe more. The only caveat is blushes and highlighters that contain glitter, light-reflecting particles. She suggests tossing them when you see a film or it starts to separate and doesn’t come back together quickly.

 Lips

If you want to know if your lipstick is still good, smell it, according to Mays-Smith. “Lipsticks get a waxy smell when they are going bad, like crayons,” she explains. “The color won’t go as smoothly, and its texture may change too.”

Lipglosses are suitable for a year, maybe longer. But formulation matters here, too; if your matte lipgloss starts to dry out, it is time to toss it.

Brushes

You can tell your brushes need to be replaced by looking at them. Are the hairs of the brushes coming out? Are the bristles stiff or mishappen? But Mays-Smith says a tell-tale sign is when there is soot on the color you are trying to apply because the previous product altered the brush hairs. Washing your brushes weekly with Dial Antibacterial soap is the best way to keep them in tip-top shape.

Keep Your Makeup Clean

Mays-Smith suggests adding this simple routine to keep your make safe and bacterial-free. Once a week, spray your eyeshadow palettes, powders, blush, and twist-top lipsticks with 75% alcohol and let them dry.

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The BHM Guide to Facial Serums (Plus 12 We Love) https://blackhealthmatters.com/the-bhm-guide-to-facial-serums/ Wed, 20 Dec 2023 02:44:00 +0000 https://blackhealthmatters.com/?p=39658 We love to say Black doesn’t crack, but the truth is our skin can sag, get dull, lose volume, and develop uneven skin tone due to acne, unprotected sun exposure, […]

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We love to say Black doesn’t crack, but the truth is our skin can sag, get dull, lose volume, and develop uneven skin tone due to acne, unprotected sun exposure, and hormonal changes. That’s why developing a routine that cares for the needs of our complexions is a critical step in retaining that ageless edge we love to brag about. Facial serums can be essential in the skincare arsenal because they provide high concentrations of active ingredients that target specific complexion issues. ‘A serum can help anyone who is unhappy with the look and feel of their skin,” says Mildred Bell, a licensed medical aesthetician and owner of dermHA by Skin Health Solutions in Downingtown, Pennsylvania.

Board-certified dermatologist Brooke Jackson, MD, of Skin Wellness Dermatology Associates in Durham, North Carolina, adds that when you want to start using them it depends on your particular skin concerns, which may change as you age. “Skin brighteners such as vitamin C can be started in the 20s.  Serums that target dry skin aging and discoloration may be started in the late 30s/40s,” she says. “Not all serums are created the same. Prices vary widely, as does efficacy, which is related to the formulation and the concentration of active ingredients.”

What is a serum, and when should it be applied?

Ginger King, a cosmetic chemist and founder of Grace Kingdom Beauty, explains that we should consider serums as treatments. “A serum usually means it is a treatment loaded with active ingredients. It can come as a liquid, gel, or milk lotion,” she says.  It is richer than an essence or toner in viscosity, but because it is thinner than a lotion, it penetrates better and can use more active ingredients.” The lightweight formula makes them easily absorbed into the skin.

For those women who use a toner after cleansing their faces to remove residues, the next step should be to apply the serum. But when toner is not part of the regimen, serum should be applied after cleansing and before moisturizer or sunscreen. Dr. Jackson points out that serums are designed to spread easily on the face. Using one or two drops of the concentrated treatment is enough. Whether the serum is applied in the morning, at night, or both depends upon the formula’s active ingredients.

 

What are some of the key ingredients that are effective for specific conditions?

Many skincare companies utilize many of these ingredients to address specific conditions, but others will also develop proprietary solutions to address specific concerns.

Oiliness: Bell likes products containing hyaluronic acid, alpha hydroxy acids, niacinamide, papaya, witch hazel, and retinol.

Dullness/Dryness: Dr. Jackson suggests looking for serums with Vitamin C, vitamin E, and hyaluronic acid. In addition, King likes alpha hydroxy and beta hydroxy acids. And Bell adds CoQ10, ceramides, retinol, green tea, and ferulic acid.

Fine Lines/Wrinkles: King suggests products with peptides. Dr. Jackson also likes products with retinol and its derivatives. Bell favors hyaluronic acid, alpha-hydroxy acid, retinol, vitamin C, vitamin E, peptides, growth factors, green tea, ceramides, and ferulic acid.

Hyperpigmentation: Dr. Jackson suggests serums that contain niacinamide, vitamin C, and kojic acid. An additional ingredient that King prefers is licorice. While Bell also adds azelaic acid, arbutin, and green tea.

Mature Skin. Bell suggests hyaluronic acid, alpha-hydroxy acid, vitamin C, retinol, niacinamide, peptides, ceramides, ferulic acid, green tea, alpha lipoic acid, and CoQ10. King says peptides and ceramides also work well. Dr. Jackson points out that bakuchiol, retinol, antioxidants, polyphenols, and reservatrol are also effective.

Sensitive Skin. Dr. Jackson says to look for serums with hyaluronic acid and niacinamide.

A Few Things to Keep in Mind

Dr. Jackson says that it is important to note that some serums may irritate underlying conditions. “Layering or mixing serums can also cause irritation,” she explains. “Concentrated ingredients in serums can irritate skin. Be cautious when combining with other ingredients in your skincare regime, whether they are over-the-counter or prescription products.” Always consult your board-certified dermatologist for guidance.

 

12 Serums We Love

*Pholk Featherlight Cucumber SkinNectar, $30

Tula Sensitive Skin Calming Vitamin B Serum, $48

*BeautyStat Universal C Brightening Vitamin C Serum, $85

*Kadalys Pink Banana Glow Booster Serum, $90

*Eadem Milk Marvel Dark Spot Serum, $68

*4.5.6 Skin Sevenly Delight Brightening Serum, $85

Korres Black Pine Scupt & Lift Serum, $65

Caudalie Reservatrol Lift Instant Firming Retinol Alternative Serum, $84 

Decorté Liposome Advanced Repair Serum, $75

*Caire Theorem ‘Serum Boost, $56, and Serum with Body Roller, $80

*Buttah Skin Retinol Sterling Silver Everlasting Oil, $49

*Absolute Joi Retinol Plus Vitamin C Skin Refining Night Oil, $64

(*Black-owned brands)

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7 Winter Skin Moisturizing Tips (Plus Products That Keep You Hydrated) https://blackhealthmatters.com/winter-skin-care/ https://blackhealthmatters.com/winter-skin-care/#respond Tue, 05 Dec 2023 05:00:00 +0000 http://www.blackhealthmatters.com/winter-skin-care/ It’s a fact of life: Cold weather dries our skin. That’s because when temperatures drop so does humidity. Add to that our attempts to keep warm—relying on indoor heating systems […]

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It’s a fact of life: Cold weather dries our skin. That’s because when temperatures drop so does humidity. Add to that our attempts to keep warm—relying on indoor heating systems that dry indoor air, lingering in steamy baths and showers when it’s chilly, even wearing moisture-robbing wool clothing—and you have a recipe for parched, ashy, itchy skin.
But you don’t have to suffer in the skin you’re in during the winter. Here are some sound measures to take to keep you comfortable and glowing:

Change products.

Switch from the lightweight cleansers and moisturizers that got you through the spring and summer to bath and body items that are more substantial. Go for creamy, moisturizing bar or liquid soaps. Look to lotions and creams containing humectants like hyaluronic acid, glycerin and urea that draw in moisture, and emollients like lactic acid, lanolin, shea butter, silicone and mineral and plant oils to protect and lubricate skin.=

Make it quick.

Take short baths and showers and keep the water temperature comfortably warm rather than steaming hot. Apply lotions and creams to your skin while it’s damp to lock in moisture.

Exfoliate.

Sloughing off dry skin once or twice a week actually helps moisturizers to better penetrate your skin.

Hydrate Often.

Moisturize skin throughout the day, particularly hands and lips, which are the most susceptible to dryness and chapping from being exposed to the elements.

Zap dry indoor air.

Invest in a humidifier. Or if you have radiators, try placing containers of water on them for the same hydrating effect.

Layer comfortably.

Wool sweaters, socks and gloves absorb moisture and can aggravate sensitive skin. To avoid it, layer silk or soft cotton fabrics under you woolens to help skin breathe and wick away perspiration while adding a lightweight layer of warmth.

Drink up.

Getting plenty of H2O is just as important during the colder months as it is when it’s warm. Staying properly hydrated diminishes the appearance of dry, dull-looking skin.

Our Product Picks:

 

Urban Hydration Mango & Lime Sugar Scrub $8.99.
Naturally London Exfoliating Body /Scrub and Skin Polish, $30
Miracle Body Butter, $47 (8 oz)
Shea Yeleen Coconut Melon Body Balm, $22
Shea Radiance Lavender African Black Soap Body Wash (also comes in Unscented), $18
Karite Shea Nourishing Lip Balm, $25

 

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Is Your Hair Routine Causing You Harm? https://blackhealthmatters.com/is-your-hair-routine-causing-you-harm/ Tue, 28 Nov 2023 20:32:43 +0000 https://blackhealthmatters.com/?p=39340 As Black women, we are serious about our haircare routines. It is not our regular salon visits, but getting our ‘dos tight daily is also critical. But a new report […]

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As Black women, we are serious about our haircare routines. It is not our regular salon visits, but getting our ‘dos tight daily is also critical. But a new report says some of our routines may be causing us more harm than good. We may inhale several milligrams of cyclic volatile methyl siloxanes from our haircare products.

The study looked at routines including straightening, curling, waving, and oiling our hair and the products and appliances used. It examined their potential impact on our health as well as the environment. When we use hair products like shampoo or conditioner, the exposure to the compounds is small.

But the risk increases when we use protectant or smoothing sprays and follow that with heat from a curling iron or flat iron. And the higher the temperature of our tools, the higher the emissions we are inhaling. 

If you have been following the news, you know about the potential ban on keratin treatments designed to straighten hair and the controversy surrounding relaxers. This study also impacts those of us wearing wigs. We use flat irons and curling irons when we style them, too.

The news is not all bad. However, there are habits we can adopt to minimize exposure to the emissions:

  • Cut back on the use of heated tools. Get out of the habit of relying on them daily.
  • When you use a flat or curling iron, work with the lowest temperature possible.
  • If the bathroom has an extractor fan, turn it on. (According to the study, the emissions will clear in about 20 minutes.)
  • Switch to hairstyles that don’t require heat (even if it is occasionally).

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Do You Wear Your Hair Straight? What the Keratin Ban Might Mean For You https://blackhealthmatters.com/do-you-wear-your-hair-straight-what-the-keratin-ban-might-mean-for-you/ Wed, 15 Nov 2023 20:49:04 +0000 https://blackhealthmatters.com/?p=39170 Black women are eagerly embracing the straight, sleek bob. But how will the proposed keratin ban impact our ability to rock that style in the future? Crystal Aguh, MD, FAAD, […]

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Black women are eagerly embracing the straight, sleek bob. But how will the proposed keratin ban impact our ability to rock that style in the future? Crystal Aguh, MD, FAAD, an Associate Professor of Dermatology and Director of the Ethnic Skin Program at Johns Hopkins School of Medicine, and Erin H. Maybin, a licensed cosmetologist, educator, and advocate who sits on the New York State Appearance Committee break down what the ban is, what treatments are impacted, and what your options are if you want to wear your hair straight.

What exactly is being proposed?

In an Instagram post, FDA Chief Scientist Namandjé N. Bumpus, Ph.D., explained that the agency plans to propose a rule to remove formaldehyde and formaldehyde-releasing chemicals as ingredients in hair straightening products. Dr. Aguh, who specializes in our hair and scalp conditions, says, “This ban includes keratin and keratin-like treatments. It does not include conventional hair relaxers.” She further explains that the FDA is using these terms because brands may call the treatments different names and tout them as formaldehyde-free, but they can still release the gas when combined with heat.

While some in our community have relied on relaxers, others switched to keratin treatments, sometimes referred to as Brazilian blowouts, because they believed that they were safer. But, apparently, that is not the case for us as clients or for the hairstylist performing the service, who is exposed to these ingredients.

What is the difference between a keratin treatment, a  texturizer, and a relaxer?

“Keratin treatments results are semi-permanent and last for a few weeks.” Aguh says. In addition to being a board-certified specialist, she is a member of the Skin of Color Society, which promotes the awareness of, and excellence within, skin of color dermatology.

 “Formaldehyde, when mixed with liquid keratin, can link with the keratin in our hair shaft and lock into a straight formation with it is activated with a heat source like a flat iron.”

Relaxers permanently break down the disulfide bonds of the hair whether they use sodium hydroxide (lye) or lithium, potassium, or guanidiine hydroxide (no lye), according to Erin H. Maybin, Executive Vice President of Education Development and co-founder of the Natural Hairstyle & Braid Coalition. “Texturizers are the use of a ‘mild relaxer’ applied to the hair (typically done to define curls, omit frizz, and create a curly hair look) combed through the hair for a short period of time to not break down the bonds of the hair completely like a traditional relaxer.”

But traditional relaxers have issues of their own. More than 7,000 lawsuits have been filed claiming the chemical service caused cancer, according to Reuters.

Why is formaldehyde dangerous?

According to Dr. Aguh, “The data linking formaldehyde to cancer is indisputable, and it is unfortunate that, despite this large body of evidence, it has continued to find its way into our hair and skin products.” She points out that the ban is long overdue. Can you believe The New York Times reported that the FDA acknowledged the ingredient was unsafe as early as 2016, yet the ban never happened?

What changed? 

Black women took action. According to CNN, Representatives Ayanna Pressley and Shontell Brown wrote to the FDA Commission, Dr. Robert Califf, asking for an investigation into hair straighteners’ link to cancer. And Dr. Bumpus started leading the FDA’s efforts in the cosmetics category in February. One of the things she was interested in was health disparities and using science to improve everyone’s overall health. But she also wanted to consider “the diverse cultural needs in the development and marketing of FDA-regulated products, including cosmetics.”

Bumpus points out that these formaldehyde-producing products are often marketed to us. When combined with heat, the risks of upper respiratory tract cancers and myleoid lukemia increase. She found that unacceptable.

But this proposed ban is in the early stages, and there will be hearings and hurdles to overcome before anything is final.

Is a silk press a better option if I still want to wear a straight style?

Well, it depends. Maybin points out that when done correctly, the straightening technique will have you looking fly. But the con is if you have silk presses done too often, it may cause mechanical damage that can only be remedied by cutting your hair. “Mechanical damage happens when too much heat is applied to the hair in one sitting or over time through multi-pass straightening or a setting that is too high.” She also cautions that heat level adjustment may also be needed around the hairline.

Maybin says the key to keeping your healthy is in your blowdrying technique:

  • Use a concentrator to control the airflow.
  • Make sure the heat runs parallel to the hair shaft.
  • Start at the roots, move to the mid-shaft, and do your ends last. (Your ends are very fragile, and it is also the place where damage starts).
  • When using a flatiron on your hair, divide it into 1/4″  sections and do the one-pass method.

Maybin points out that the technology of your tools is critical. Her choices are tools from Ergo and FHI. Your tools may be the difference between maintaining healthy hair and damaging it. But proper maintenance must also include regular trims.

What are my styling options if I want to grow the keratin out?

“I have a client who is currently embracing her natural hair and growing out her keratin treatment,” Maybin says. “We gently blow her hair, smooth it out with a flatiron, or sometimes curl it. The heat is few and far between because we don’t want to damage her newly embraced hair.” Other styling options include braids, twists, or faux loc extensions.

The bottom line: yes, you can still rock your straight bob but be aware of the risks with chemical straighteners, be aware of the temperature and frequency associated with your heat tools and get regular trims.

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